Recipes, retaurants, wines, cocktails, and travel

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Foie Gras au Torchon


I don't care that they force feed ducks to enlarge their livers to create fois gras. I am an animal lover, but that applies to dog, cats, hamsters, etc... If shoving food down the throat of a duck is required to make the most delicious substance on Earth, then line the little bastards up and start shoving. My wife and I were in Quebec last week for 2 reasons; play golf on Laurentian mountaintops, and dine on some of North America's finest cuisine. The Quebecois restauranteurs take pride in presenting you with great local ingredients, and excellent service. The Eastern Townships section of Quebec (east of Montreal) is known for being the largest producer of ducks in North America. Fortunately, the Laurentians are on the other side of Montreal, and the many French restaurants located in the mountain villages buy the local ducks and their delicious enlarged livers.
I have had fois gras at Jean George and Picholine in New York City, but the portions are much larger in Quebec. Although typically served with some type of sweet fruit chutney, I prefer it with some coarse salt spread on a toast point. Why cover the perfect taste with anything?
I learned that the word torchon,  means dish towel in French, because after preparing, it is wrapped in a dish towel, to extrac moisture and form it into a roll. This is not a recipe you want to make at home, as it takes three days. I also don't particularly like dealing with raw liver. If you feel the need to make it, check out this site  http://ruhlman.com/2011/05/how-to-make-torchon-recipe/
The best fois gras I have ever had was at a little place in Ste. Adele, Quebec called L'Etape Gourmande, run by a French native. The Gourmande dinner had 5 courses and was very reasonable at $46.00 per person (Canadian), which is about half af what you would pay in NYC. The fois gras appetizer included 2 large discs; one of just fois gras, and the other with a center bit of mango chutney. If this restaurant was in Northern Jersey, it would be packed every night. If your travels ever take you to this pretty spot (golf in summer, skiing in winter) stop by, and you will be delighted.
It is amazing that after a 5 1/2 hour drive from Northern New Jersey, you are transported to what seems like the French countryside. We have been to Quebec 6 times in the past 12 summers and I look forward to returning soon.