Italian Food

It amazes me as to what some people consider as good Italian food. Folks in northern New Jersey are incredibly spoiled by the amount of quality Italian restaurants we have at our disposal. And a short hop into the city broadens our choices even more. When I travel to other parts of the country I am always very skeptical of the "Best Italian Restaurant" in town. If they were to open in our neck of the woods, they wouldn't stay in business for six months. Mushy pasta with canned sauces just don't do it for me.
I love to cook Italian recipes at home, and it is a passion of mine to collect Italian regional cookbooks. I currently have around 50 different books and I am always on the look out for new ones. I especially like regional cooking that we don't often seen prepared in our local restaurants. Cooking from Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna, Le Marche, Sicliy and others, contain recipes that use their local ingredients and their own unique flavors. The food in different regions is as different as the wines from different regions.
The vast majority of Americans think of spaghetti and meatballs as Italian food. One of my favorite movies is "The Big Night", about two brothers from Italy running a struggling restaurant serving traditional food. The following clip from the movie shows how they deal with the typical American customer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URdCltP8rqA
Stanley Tucci and Tony Shaloub deliver great performances in this movie. I owe my friend "Mr. Meatball" credit for this clip, as he has used it on his very entertaining blog. I strongly recommend you visit him at;
http://mistermeatball.blogspot.com/
He never fails to get laugh from me, as well as teach me something new.

The New Jersey "State Meat"

T.E.C.  Taylor Ham, Egg, and Cheese sandwich

Anyone from New Jersey knows about the virtues of Taylor Ham (A.K.A. Pork Roll), and it's curative powers. The pictured sandwich paired with a chocolate milk is the best cure to a hangover known to man. You may ask "what exactly is pork roll composed of?"  Don't bother going there. Just enjoy it's tangy, salty, porky flavor. John Taylor first sold his pork product in 1856, and Case pork roll began in 1870, offering a hickory smoked taste. There are several other manufacturers in Trenton, NJ and southeastern PA., but Taylor and Case are by far the best. Supermarkets often sell a "store brand" pork roll, which should be avoided at all costs. If you see the large log of  "Goodies" brand in a deli meat case, run out of there quickly. This cheap imitation is more like an inferior bologna.
I recently found a good site to buy it direct. There are numerous web sites re-selling Pork Rolls at twice the price of supermarkets, however Case actually takes orders directly at very reasonable rates.   Link is:
http://www.emartshops.com/caseporkrollstore/Case=27s_Pork_Roll_Store_Product_Ordering.html
The big "club  stores" like Costco and B.J.'s sell a 6 pound log for around $20.00, but it's the "Trenton Brand", which doesn't have a lot of flavor. It's also difficult to prevent it from going bad. I will cut it in 6-8 sections and freeze them in zip lock bags, but you still have eat it in a month or two. If I ate 6 lb.s of pork roll a month, I probably would be scheduling a bypass operation. Case offers 1.5 lb rolls which are in the cotton sack and shrink wrapped. They freeze very well until ready for the skillet.

Another wonderful use for pork roll is the "Jersey Burger".  Barbecue a  homemade beef patty, and a thick slice of pork roll on a hot grill, melt american cheese on both, assemble on hard roll with ketchup, salt and pepper. Won't exactly help your tri-glycerides level, but that isn't the point. The combo of pork and beef juices and gooey cheese is heavenly. New Jersey may have the highest taxes in the country, but we can get pork roll in thousands of diners, delis, and stores. The rest of the country has to eat Spam.

A Bed in Paradise

This is the king size lounge/bed I layed myself across for the past week. I had no idea how great it was to sleep in the hotel bed all night and then lounge in another bed all day. I would have bed sores if it wasn't for the getting up and walking 50 feet to the bar for a new cocktail, or the buffet for yet another meal. It's back on the diet this week to make up for the indulgences. Jersey  Pammie and I were at Cancun Caribe Royal Park Grand and really enjoyed it. A welcome break from the harsh winter we have endured this year. You can read my review on Trip advisor in a few days. They had wonderful tequilas, which I never drank much of at home outside of my Margaritas. (I will share the simple recipe in warmer months)
We found the employees to be very friendly and helpful throughout our visit. I was a little reluctant to go to Mexico in light of the violence there. Cancun is probably one of the safest cities in Mexico, and outside of venturing to town once, we had no desire to leave our day-bed. The ocean was delightful and only about 80 steps from the pool pictured above. All inclusives are great for a no-thinking trip. You don't have waste time planning where you eat each meal, or where to go each day. I love a touring vacation, but this is the ideal winter break.
We did go to one very good restaurant across the street one night called Lorenzillo's (web site http://www.lorenzillos.com.mx/    )
This was an excellent dining spot. Outdoor tables on the pier looking out across the bay. Their specialty is lobster (Caribbean Lobster) and they prepare it 20 different ways. I chose the filet mignon stuffed with lobster and mushrooms in Bernaise sauce. It was outstanding. We also had the Caesar salad made table side and was also very good. It took the guy 5 full minutes to make the salad, carefully rubbing the wooden bowl with garlic. I also had the Mexican Lobster Bisque, which was loaded with large chunks of lobster and a lighter broth than a true bisque, and surprising me was pieces of avocado in the soup, which gave it a unique flavor. They made a top notch martini and had a vast wine list. This place is not cheap, to say the least, but well worth it. The personal service by dedicated waitstaff made the evening more memorable. I would not return to Cancun without going there.

Yummy Asian Ribs

Jersey Paulie was in Vegas last week and I went Roy"s Hawaiian Fusion Restaurant 2 consecutive nights, because I had to have their ribs twice. Roy Namaguchi started in Hawaii many years ago and now has restaurants across the country. Wonderful sushi, fresh fish and even decent steaks. I've been to the Vegas place every year during my annual pilgrimage. I first met the wonderful ribs by ordering the appetizer canoe.

The Vegas canoe has 2 ribs, blackened ahi, shrimp sticks, lobster pot stickers, and a crispy spicy tuna roll. I love an assortment of appetizers, and the flavors really work well on this plate. The second night I returned I had the full portion of ribs, and the canoe and skipped an entree. When I got home, I had to try to recreate these delicious morsels. The waitstaff were helpful in telling me how they are made, and I made some modifications. I am a firm believer in the  "low & slow" cooking method when it comes to ribs. I was ready to buy the baby back ribs at the butcher, but they didn't look very meaty. I noticed some beef short ribs that were cross cut, and they were very nicely marbled and meaty, and decided to try them.  I cut them in pieces about 3" X 3" and generously applied a pork rub on all sides, and then put them in Ziploc for the night. The following day I layed them on a jelly roll pan (like a cookie sheet), and covered the top tightly with aluminum foil. I baked them in a 220 degree oven for 4 hours and removed them. I heated a Hoison Garlic Glaze (I used Soy Vay brand) in a small saucepan and dipped each rib piece entirely in the sauce and returned it to the baking pan. Then I baked it at 275 for another 30 minutes, which turned them almost black. I brushed a little more of the warm sauce on top and sprinkled some toasted sesame seeds on top of the sauce.
I usually prefer pork over beef, but the intense meaty flavor of short ribs was the perfect compliment to the sweet garlic taste of the sauce. Needless to say, my guests enoyed them.

Roy's pork ribs
I learned that there was a Roy's Hawaiin resaurant in N.Y.C., but it has since closed. The closest one to Jersey is Baltimore, and I plan to visit there soon, but at least I can make the ribs at home, and maybe try some new things on the menu when I get Baltimore.
Roy's Hawaiin Restaurant
620 East Flamingo Road
Las Vegas, NV
http://www.roysrestaurant.com/index.asp

Novellis Restaurant

Most people who go out to dinner often have a favorite place, where they are welcomed, known by name, and feel right at home. Mine is Novelli Restaurant in Wayne. It is an upscale place owned and operated by Spiro Barelis and his wife Stephanie. Readers may remember Spiro from Barreli's Restaurant in Secaucus, which he opened and ran for many years till he sold it about ten years ago. I have eaten here hundreds of times and can honestly say I have never had a meal that I didn't enjoy.





All great restaurants have something in common. The owners are always there! It is impossible to eat a meal here and not have Spiro or Stefanie stop by your table and sincerely ask how everything was. Their seasoned waitstaff are very efficient without being overbearing, but the real stars here are the creative dishes. Things like: filet mignon on the bone, dover sole, the rissota of the day, homemade pastas and sauces. The daily specials are printed with pricing on an insert in the menu. They don't play the "special game", where specials are read off a list and when the check comes you are surprised that even though all the veal dishes on the menu were $22.00, the special veal dish you ordered (with similar ingredients) cost you $37.00. I think that is just plain dishonest, and I have no problem asking waiters the cost of a special in places that play that game.
The other appeal of Novelli is the lively bar crowd. In addition to offering excellent cocktails, many patrons enjoy dining at the bar. As I have stated in previous posts, it's fun to meet new people while dining out. The evening bartender Jason, anticipates your needs and will not only make a killer martini, but take your food order. This is a very hopping scene on some nights, so if you want to eat at the bar, plan on being there early.
Novelli Restaurant
2410 Hamburg Tpk.
Wayne, NJ
973-835-3585
http://www.novellis-restaurant.com/dining.htm

Seabra Marisqueira

Once and a while you find a restaurant with flavors you haven't experienced before, or it has a setting that is  unique. Seabra Marisqeira hits both those marks! In the ironbound section of Newark about a block off Ferry Street serving true Portugese seafood. I made my second visit there last week and was delighted that I rememebered the place from several years ago.  My friend Dave and I ate at the huge circular bar and we were the only 2 people there who conversed in English. This is Portugese and Brazilian territory and these folks are very proud of their heritage and food.  

 

 

 

 

Local patrons at the bar in Seabras Marisqueira

I started with a Martini and can definitley say it was one of the worst I've had. Too much vermouth and it was served in an eye-cup. Once I got that out of the way we stayed with sangria for the duration, which was as good as any I have had. We split 2 appetizers; the New Zealand Cockels in a superb broth of wine, olive oil, garlic, parsley and cilantro. We soaked the crusty locally baked bread in the light clam broth till it disappeared. One of the owners shared the recipe with us, as it was a slow night due to snowy weather. We also had the Chorizo which was larger in circumference that the standard Newark chorizo. It is char grilled whole with crispy skin then sliced and served. The homemade sausage was even better when dipped in the clam broth mentioned above. Actually you could dip an old diaper in that sauce and it would be good.

For an entre I had the grilled short ribs with garlic glaze, and Dave had a daily special of fried fluke. They were both very good , but the fluke was outstanding. I love flan and their house-made version was tops. They also have very good esspresso, very much European in taste and thickness. The bartender, server, and owner couldn't have been nicer to us. I look forward to going back and sampling more of their menu. I hear this place is packed on weekend nights, and I believe it. Go during the week and sit at the bar. You meet more people and always have more fun at the bar, whether with a friend or your wife. My wife (jerseypammie)  doesn't drink, but will often sit at the bar for the socializing that goes on. You don't meet new people at a corner table. You can see their reasonably priced menu via the web site below.

Seabra marisqueira

87 Madison St
Newark, NJ 07105
(973) 465-1250

http://www.njdiningguide.net/Seabras/index.html

 

In Search of the best Italian Meatball

Who doesn't love a good Italian meatball? O.K. maybe a vegetarian, but someone who doesn't eat animal flesh has no business being on this blog. I have researched the art of making an exceptional meatball to the point of obsession. Without a doubt, the best meatball I have ever eaten was in the Italian neighborhood of Federal Hill in Providence, RI at a charming restaurant, "Sienna".   http://www.sienari.com/prov-home.html
Everything the six of had that night was exceptional but the Meatball appetizer was the stand out. It is described as follows on the menu:  Polpette Grande - $10

Extra large meatball, made from ground sirloin, veal & pork, topped with San Marzano marinara and a large scoop of Ricotta cheese. Garnished with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and fresh basil.

They arent' kidding when they say "extra large". This globe of deliciousness is the size of a babie's head, and much tastier (I would imagine). We all sampled it and our collective eyes rolled back in our sockets. Using the ingredients listed on the menu description as a guide, I have attempted to recreate at home, and have come close. Here's where I am now.
For the meatballs:
2 lbs. Ground Sirloin
2 lbs. Meat loaf mix (ground veal, pork & veal)
1 1/2 Eggs beaten
4-6 garlic finely diced sauted garlic cloves
1/2 cup of diced sauted onions
1/2 cup finely grated Locatelli Romano cheese
1/2 cup finely diced fresh parsley
Ground pepper to taste
Sea salt to taste
2 cups of stale Italian bread cut in to small pieces
3/4 cup of whole milk
Soak the bread pieces in the milk for 1/2 an hour (or until all milk is absorbed into bread, adding more if needed). Mix all ingredients completely together and form meatballs the size of a softball. You should get about 6 meatballs.  You can either bake the meatballs for a half hour at 350 degrees or you can brown them in batches in a pan or dutch oven in 1/ 2 inch of olive oil or bacon fat. Obviously the best flavor will be the bacon fat option.
Heat your homemade marinara sauce in  a large pot and add the meatballs. You will need enough sauce to cover them. Cook on simmer for a good hour, stirring carefully so as not to break the MB's. Serve in a wide bowl with the meatball, covered in sauce, a large spoon of whole milk ricotta on the top, and then grate some fresh parmigiano-reggiano over it all. I skip the basil, but a few fresh leaves add color to the dish.

Sienna's Polpette Grande
The combination of the ricotta, meatball and sauce is amazing. It is best shared as the MB is close to one pound, but I could easily consume it in its entirety. I bet you want a meatball now!